After the collapse of the Umayyad Caliphate of Syria, an Ismaili state was established in North Africa during the middle of the 8th century to the 9th century by the Fatimid (a dynasty founded by ‘Ubayd Allah, descendant of Fātima, Prophet’s daughter and wife of Alī’). The Fatimids proclaimed themselves caliphs and competed with the Abbasid Sunnite caliphs in Baghdad. In 969, they conquered Egypt, established Cairo and developed a strong and prosperous state. The golden age of the Ismailis' political influence over a vast empire was between the 10th and 12th centuries, when thought and literature attained their summit. A dispute that arose over the succession of the Fatimid imam and caliph, Al Mustansir (8th imam, died 1094), following the death of his older and designated son Nizār in 1095, divided Ismailis into two distinct communities, known later respectively as Nizaris, who settled primarily in Persia and Syria, and Musta’alis, who settled in Egypt, Yemen and Western India

The Nizaris acquired political prominence in the 12th century and remained prosperous for about 166 years, up until the Mongol invasion led by Hulagu in 1253. Under the direction of Hasan as[1]Sabbāh (died 1124), founder and first leader of the newly established state, the Fatimid Nizari Ismailis conquered the fortress of Alamut in the mountains of northern Iran. Another group settled in northern Syria during the end of the 11th century. Hasan as-Sabbāh developed a revolutionary strategy against the Seljuks and succeeded in the consolidation of an independent Nizari Da’wa. From Alamut, emissaries led the Syrian Nizaris in attempts to acquire strategic fortresses for military operations. Ismailis sought to establish themselves in cities such as Aleppo, Hama or Damascus but soon encountered consequential resistance. Only in the Jabel al-Bahra, today known as the Syrian Coastal Mountains, did they succeed in their project of territorial acquisition, and between from 1130s to 1151, took control of many pre-existing strongholds in the heart of deep valleys. Existing sites with exceptional natural defenses were reinforced by a policy of quick restoration.

The Ismaili leader in Syria, Sinān Rāshid ad-Dīn (1162 – 1192) known as the “Old Man of the Mountain”, was chosen by Alamut to reorganize the Nizari Community and the Ismaili Da’wa in Syria and to fortify their strongholds. The capital of the Syrian state was transferred from Qadmous to Masyaf 1140, where it remained until 1169. In the second half of the 12th century, they settled at the high point of al-Kahaf at the heart of a rough mountainous environment in a daunting and inaccessible site. Regardless of the exceptional topography of this site, such a choice might be seen as an attempt to open up to the sea and obtain more contact, commercial or political, with the coast, or perhaps a way of avoiding any contact with the Muslim world of the desert. At any rate, this shift to mountainsides was very clear after 1160.

After the death of Sinan in 1192, the Ismailis' area of influence in Syria was reduced to ten fortresses: in the east, along the piedmont plain of the mountainous massif, bordering the slump of the Orontes, Masyaf, al-Qulay’a, Khariba; west of this line, on the first buttresses of the massif, Hadid; and finally, on the western slope of the Massif, al-Khawābi, al-Kahaf, Qadmūs, al-‘Ullayqa and al-Maynaqa. This network of castles thus formed a vast area in which the Ismailis completely controlled for over a century. This very protected and difficult-to-access area, a result of the exceptional natural topography and defenses of the Jebel al-Bahra, was bordered on the north by the Principality of Antioch, on the south by the County of Tripoli, and on the east by other Arab dynasties.

Sinan Rashid al-Din Sanctuary

Sinan Rashid al-Din (1131 or 1135–1193), the Sheikh al-Jebal, is supposed to have inhabited and lived 11 continuous years in the citadel (perhaps between 1164 and 1176), prior moving to Masyaf, while continuing to make from Masyaf to the citadel of al-Qadmus frequent visits. No historic sources refer to this space and confirmed its use, nor as a residence or nor as any other specific use. Based on a certain tradition, this shrine, is just a space where locals use visit and celebrate the souvenir of Sinan Rashid al-Din as his residence, a tradition still present in the local memories motivating this sporadic pilgrimage. In an alcove, certain visitors light candles and burn incense. Of the surviving historic structures perhaps, the oldest and most interesting is a vaulted undercroft said to be the abode of Sinan Rashid al-Din. However, it is only this tenuous connection that puts the volume beyond the ordinary.

This space, attributed to Sinan Rashid al-Din in the castle of Al-Qadmus, is a shrine to celebrate his memory. This hall has gone through three phases of construction, the oldest of which dates back to the 13th century and was most likely built after his death in 1193. This hall became an honorary shrine, and it is certainly not the tomb of Sinan Rashid al-Din, who was most likely buried in Masyaf. All the Ismaili castles in Syria contain an honorary hall dedicated to Sinan Rashid al-Din Nizar, in which incense is lit.

The space, oriented east-west, is 12 meters long and 4.30 meters wide and is covered with three crossed vaults, is located at the limit of the cliff of the rocky massif where the Citadel sits. Three windows are open on the southern façade and a low door permits access from the west.

Condition assessment in 2007

The south elevation to the vaulted undercroft is currently stable but shows signs of a tendency to rotate towards the east, indicated by a major crack. Masonry joints are open, and many stones are loose being no longer bonded into the core, clearly there is rainwater ingress both through the joints and around the concrete slab roof to the wall head arrowed below. The elevation is also bulging and generally distorted. The entire east elevation of the undercroft, part of the ancient curtain wall, tends to rotate to the east, however the action is currently dormant and recent works in stabilization of the limestone country in the vicinity will ensure that future movement is arrested.

Condition assessment in February 2023

Following the earthquakes of February 2023, the southern facade of the Residence collapsed, and critical cracks appeared in the vaults. The following urgent interventions were decided in 2023 due to the danger of continuing the collapse: -

• Collecting the fallen stones.
• Remove all plants and tree roots close to the foundations of the walls and on the roof.
• Dismantling the façade and rebuilt it.
• Dismantling a section of the vault and rebuilt them.
• Use lime-based mortar between stone joints.
• Grouting the cracks with liquid lime mortar.
• Compacting the soil of the floor.
• Insulating the roof.
• Replacing the topsoil with mortar screed. 

Al-Qadmous is an historic city with important reference points for the Ismaili community. Currently Qadmous has over 8000 residents and has an important Ismaili presence of both Jamaati and Mominshahi communities. Among the historic sites of the city, the Mosque of ‘Imam Hassan Jalal Al-Din’ located in the old city, adjacent to the Souk, the Home of Imam Sinan Rashid al-Din located in the Citadel, and Shrine of Mawla Hassan, located in a mountain top (1150m) surrounded by a forest of cedar and cypress trees, had important structural damage (following February 2023 earthquake) that need to be addressed for the safety of the inhabitants, and to preserve the historical identity of these communities.

The space attributed to Sinan Rashid al-Din in the castle of Al-Qadmus, is located one of the highest points in the mountains (rising 1,170 m above sea level). The space, oriented east-west, is 12 meter long and 4,30 m wide (46 m2) and is covered with three crossed vaults, is located at the limit of the cliff of the rocky massif where is located the citadel. Three windows are opened on the southern façade, and a low door permits access from the west.

It is a shrine to celebrate Sinan Rashid al-Din’s memory. This hall has gone through three phases of construction, the oldest of which dates to the 13th century and was most likely built after his death in 1193. This hall became an honorary shrine, and it is certainly not the tomb of Sinan Rashid al-Din, who was most likely buried in Masyaf.

The famous Ismaili leader in Syria, Sinān Rāshid ad-Dīn (1162 – 1192) known as the “Old Man of the Mountain”, was chosen by Alamut to reorganize the Nizari Community and the Ismaili Da’wa in Syria and to fortify their strongholds. The capital of the Syrian state was transferred from Qadmous to Masyaf 1140, where it remained until 1169.

Sinan Rashid al-Din, the Sheikh al-Jebal, is supposed to have inhabited and lived 11 continuous years in the citadel (perhaps between 1164 and 1176), prior moving to Masyaf, while continuing to make from Masyaf to the citadel of al-Qadmous frequent visits. No historic sources refer to this space and confirmed its use, nor as a residence or nor as any other specific use. Based on a certain tradition, this shrine, is just a space where locals use visit and celebrate the souvenir of Sinan Rashid al-Din as his residence, a tradition still present in the local memories motivating this sporadic pilgrimage.

In an alcove, some visitors light candles and burn incense.

Source: Aga Khan Trust for Culture